An interview with Marina Spadafora, an ambassador for ethical fashion around the world, on the need for brands and consumers to adopt truly sustainable goals.
Milan is internationally renowned as one of the four fashion capitals, along with Paris, London and New York. The new trends are set in Milan, as well as it being the stage for the biggest international fashion events.
And among the most talked-about trends in recent years is, of course, sustainability. In centre stage, and under the spotlights of every production, every process, every business, every use.
The fashion textile industry is responsible for 10% of the planet's pollution, putting it in second place after the petrochemical industry in the list of most polluting sectors in the world.
Every year, 100 billion garments are produced, with a consumption of 62 million in 2020: this figure will reach 102 million by 2030.
The impact of the textile industry on the environment is enormous, and constantly growing.
The production cycle has a water consumption of around 1500 billion litres a year, and is responsible for 92 million tonnes of waste: the products of the textile industry take up 5% of landfills around the globe.
As well as waste, the sector causes long-lasting environmental damage to aquatic, terrestrial and atmospheric ecosystems due to emissions of greenhouse gases, pesticides and dyes, and discharge of effluents, which contain both dyes and caustic solutions.
Fortunately, for a few years the issue of sustainability has been becoming an integral part of the corporate strategies of many brands, both luxury ones and also, finally, certain fast fashion chains.
Every year, we take part in launches of special collections, new materials and concrete actions from stylists. The sector is investing in research and development in order to reduce impact, starting from materials, processing, finishing, machinery, waste disposal, recycling and re-use.
Even separate waste collection for used clothing has value. It can be done in thousands of ways: first and foremost, by reusing. Currently organised spontaneously, from 2025 a requirement will come into force for the institution of separate waste collection for textile waste in the EU. And Italy has brought the date forward to the 1st January 2022.
But the movement for sustainable fashion is a movement that promotes change within the fashion industry, addressing not only the ecological integrity and sustainability of fashion textiles and products, but also social justice from the point of view of the producers and the final users.
The standards for sustainability cannot fail to include respect for workers.
Specially for the occasion of the latest Milan Fashion Week, in 2021, the World Sustainability Organisation (WSO), as part of its sustainable fashion initiatives, launched the first ethical and sustainable Model Academy and Agency.
The previous year, WSO had presented the Friend of the Earth sustainable fashion certification to guarantee the profit and growth of the sector, at the same time creating new value and more profound riches for society, and therefore for the global economy.
The launch of WSO Models Academy & Agency (WSO MAA) is a step forward, motivating the fashion industry to be more sustainable and to have a more ethical approach to this profession.
The WSO MAA's mission is to offer a platform through which models can be treated fairly as people, respecting their rights and highlighting them for what they are, their life stories and their commitment to support the community or conservation projects.
In turn, the profits from the Academy will also be used to support WSO conservation projects and campaigns.
All the models are treated in compliance with national laws on employment and fair compensation. WSO MAA and its clients adhere to strict rules against discrimination and sexual harassment. The models are also provided with support and information for correct nutrition.
The WSO offers support to models abroad who want to join the WSO model, through virtual castings, photographic services and the support of the Academy. They work only with companies that respect specific environmental standards.
"Models lack many of the protections reserved for full-time employees, and are particularly vulnerable to exploitation. - states Paolo Bray, founder and director of the WSO - Only 30% of the models appearing on runways and in advertising campaigns are not white. Plus-size models represent less than 1% of the total. 81% of models have reported a body mass index below 18.5, which is considered underweight by the World Health Organisation."
Fashion is the first to pay tribute to diversity, but always and only with identical models. It is the first to pay tribute to body positivity, but only recently have some brands decided to include curvy models and others in their runway shows. In short, the fashion industry likes to make a big splash, but fails to act on its words. And we need to bear in mind that the images of models circulate at great speed (virally) with global exposure: it is clear that all this leads to the development of common ideas.
The idea of WSO MAA is to offer itself as an example and a vehicle for more sustainable and responsible ideas!
An interview with Marina Spadafora, an ambassador for ethical fashion around the world, on the need for brands and consumers to adopt truly sustainable goals.
Beyond aesthetics: the painter Gianluca Corona and his synaesthetic works, which reveal allegories of nature and man, transforming the present into infinity.