Rural regeneration needs to take a step forward: from the industrial supply chain to "brotherhood". Speaking to Lucio Cavazzoni, president of Good Land.
The first time I met Massimo Bottura was in his kitchen in Modena.
I found myself behind the scenes in one of the most famous restaurants in the world, face-to-face with the most acclaimed chef in international food criticism, and I felt perfectly at ease, as if I were in front of the cooker at home, with a friend.
It was 2016, the year in which Osteria Francescana, which has had three Michelin stars since 2012, reached the top of the "World's 50 Best Restaurants" ranking in the British periodical Restaurant, proclaimed as the best restaurant in the world, with the justification:
"In a country where food culture is profoundly conservative, Bottura has embarked on a bold, sometimes controversial journey, gaining approval all over the world, and winning over even Italian critics."
I was looking for ideas for a communication project, and I was bowled over by a universe of inspiration: humanity, generosity, inclusion, sustainability, and yes, also food.
It makes sense, because Massimo Bottura's philosophy has gone far beyond just culinary creation. The message sent from the kitchens in Via Stella has become the principle guiding his entire life's work: limit food waste as much as possible.
In 2015, as a response to the theme of the 2015 EXPO, "Feed the Planet", Bottura opened his first Refectory in collaboration with Caritas Ambrosiana: the Refettorio Ambrosiano, focused on hospitality and catering for people in need, and salvaging surplus food.
I was lucky enough to participate in many other openings, among which was the Refettorio della Ghirlandina, where to my amazement and excitement I found myself in a historical ex-chapel in the centre of Modena, restored with taste and elegance, furnished with style and care, finished and decorated with frescoes by local artists; I found myself in a space that was more than just comfortable, it was beautiful. Following this were the refectories in London, Paris, Rio de Janeiro, Naples, Medina, New York, San Francisco... now an unstoppable flow: Massimo often says that he would like the opening of a new refectory not to be something exceptional, but an everyday event.
This is how I was able to fully understand the reach of the vision of Food for Soul, the non-profit in which the idea of refectories comes together and takes the form of a social and cultural project.
Every refectory is created with the goal of helping the community through the fight against food waste and social isolation.
Food for Soul was founded with the aim of encouraging public, private and non-profit organisations to create and support refectories all over the world, and engage professionals from a range of sectors, such as chefs, architects, producers and food distributors to promote and contribute to the creation of these alternative community projects.
They are alternative because thanks to the intervention of architects, designers and artists, the refectories are transformed into unique places, reflecting and enhancing the traditions and customs of the communities that host them.
Bottura believes in food, in culture and in art, and is strongly convinced that together, these three ingredients have the power to create a collective impact, to ensure the wellbeing of people and the health of the planet.
He uses the power of beauty, the value of hospitality, his love for food and the quality of ideas as tools to trigger social change.
Restoring is the guiding theme of the Food for Soul project.
Restoring everything that would be wasted, such as food, spaces, time, energy.
"This is not charity, it is culture", I have often heard Massimo repeat.
Culture that encourages a healthy, fair food system, I would like to add.
At mealtimes I have seen these spaces come alive, with the volunteers serving a hot meal with a smile to those who have nothing. A hot meal that nourishes, that makes us free and equal, that includes.
Because poverty is not only economic poverty, but also social isolation, and sharing a meal is first of all an opportunity for conviviality, exchange, humanity.
Eating and being served at the table, in a beautiful environment that is well looked-after, clean and welcoming, is part of a project with great humanity, where social inclusion restores dignity to those who thought they had lost it along with their job, home or the affection of their loved ones.
A project that is a long way from the concept of charity, but that expresses the desire to stretch out its hand to those who, for whatever reason, have slid to the margins of society.
And it is also done through good recipes, beautiful designer plates, tables and chairs, art installations; through beauty that pulls you away from the darkness.
Because having access to beauty should be a right for all. And these refectories, which represent the foundations of popular cuisine, are accessible to all.
But there's more.
In these magical places, not only is surplus food skilfully transformed into nourishing meals, but a path to social reintegration is also encouraged and supported through culinary, professional and artistic training courses, seeking a dialogue with organisations, institutions, local foundations, companies, producers, artisans, artists, and offering educational programmes and opportunities for personal development that can also lead to job placement.
These are places where concrete activities of social inclusion are promoted.
It seems pretty good to me. And if you are still wondering why someone would ever take charge of such a demanding project, I will add a provocation, through one of Bottura's ideas:
"Knowledge creates conscience, and conscience creates responsibility."
"What goes around comes around", because life is all a cycle of cause and effect.
And karma, as we know, never forgets.
Rural regeneration needs to take a step forward: from the industrial supply chain to "brotherhood". Speaking to Lucio Cavazzoni, president of Good Land.
Aesthetics and ethics in a virtuous union that, far beyond the stereotyped images in advertising, inspires the food photography of Roberto Savio.